Italy’s Next Generation Takes Hold
義大利時尚界的文藝復興
By Elizabeth Paton,

For a sector rooted in change, fashion has often proved surprisingly resistant to rewrite. Consider, for example, one beloved refrain of the last decade in boardrooms and backrooms alike: that Milan was the least creative of the four fashion capitals, run by old names, dominated by big money and lacking any support from a crumbling establishment.
對於一個深植於變化的行業來說，時尚反倒能常常聞風不動，令人驚訝。舉個例子，過去10年間在會議室與密室中有這麼個常被重複的的老哏：米蘭為四大時尚之都中最沒有創意的，由老品牌人物把持、受大資金宰制，而且未獲搖搖欲墜的既存體制任何支持。

By contrast, London was considered a breeding ground of avant-garde young things lauded as faces of the future, and Paris, all creative conceptualism and glamour, the zenith of the seasonal calendar. Pity the poor young Italian designer, struggling to break through.
相較之下，倫敦被認為是前衛年輕事物的孕育之地，而這些事物被稱為未來的風貌，而巴黎則是所有創意概念與魅力之所在，是季節性日曆之巔。這些可憐的、努力尋求突破的年輕義大利設計師則令人感到同情。

It may be time to rethink the stereotype.
也許是到了修改這些刻板印象的時候了。

Government funding, coupled with Vogue Italia-driven initiatives such as Who Is on Next?, competitions that nurture and showcase the country’s young blood, have helped spar what may be seen as a 21st-century fashion renaissance in Italy.
政府的資金支持，再加上時裝雜誌Vogue義大利版所推動的活動，如培養及展現該國年輕新血的競賽Who Is On Next?，已激起了可能被視為義大利21世紀時裝文藝復興的火花。

“Things are changing fast, and the issues of the past are now behind us,” said Carlo Capasa, president of the Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana, the industry organization that is spearheading expansion by helping designers with funding, show spaces and contacts. “We are really focused on getting our brands of tomorrow into the spotlight today. I honestly believe that Italy today is a great place for a young designer to be.”
產業組織「義大利國家時裝商會」藉由幫助設計師獲得資金、展出場所及人脈的方式，帶領這個行業進行擴展，該組織總裁卡羅．卡帕沙說：「事情正在快速變化，昔日的問題已成過去。我們非常專注於讓我們明日的品牌成為今日的焦點。我由衷認為，今天的義大利對年輕準設計師來說是個很棒的地方。」

Fostering the future of Italian fashion is seen as one key to surviving the country’s well-documented rocky macroeconomic climate. Total revenue generated by the Italian fashion industry was more than 61 billion euros, or nearly $68 billion, in 2014. Once the final figures for 2015 are totaled, analysts estimate revenue will have risen 7 percent last year, to 65 billion euros.
已有足夠資料證明義大利總體經濟環境相當艱困，而開拓時裝業的未來被視為義大利存活下來的一大關鍵。2014年，義大利時尚產業整體營收超過610億歐元（將近680億美元）。待2015年最終數字統計出來，分析師估計去年營收將上升7%至650億歐元。

So it was no coincidence that Milan Fashion Week opened with a lunch hosted, for the first time, by an Italian prime minister – in this case, Matteo Renzi.
因此，米蘭時裝周首度以義大利總理主持的午餐會揭幕，絕非出於偶然。目前的總理是馬泰奧．倫齊。

“Historically, Italy has just not been a place ready for new things – it never has been,” said de Vincenzo, 38, who spent 13 years at Fendi before winning the Who Is on Next? competition and gaining investment for his brand from LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton in 2014.
現年38歲的馬可．文森佐說：「從歷史上看，義大利一直不是為新事物做好準備的地方，從來就不是。」他在贏得Who Is On Next?比賽，並在2014年獲得LVMH酩悅軒尼詩路易威登集團投資他的品牌以前，曾在Fendi工作13年。

原文參照：
http://www.nytimes.com/2016/02/25/fashion/italy-fashion.html

2016-03-20/聯合報/D2版/紐約時報賞析 陳韋廷譯

說文解字看新聞 陳韋廷

由於欠缺求新求變（innovation and changes）的氣象，具指標意義的義大利米蘭時尚界在文中慘遭批評，被指為為全球四大時尚之都中最不具創意的一個。時尚若沒有了創意，自然就不具有生命力，更甭提品牌建立（brand building）了。

至於四大時尚之都，文中提到三處，漏掉紐約。每年在這些地方都會舉辦時裝周（Fashion Week），時間一般是在2、3月以及9、10月，決定了該年秋冬與隔年春夏季的服裝流行趨勢。國人比較熟悉的是ready-to-wear（成衣）， 單價動輒百萬台幣起跳的haute couture（高級訂製服）鎖定金字塔頂端的客戶。

除了fashion外，還有其他關於時尚的英文，例如vogue、trend以及fad。例句：Gold is back in vogue as investors seek out a safe haven amid growing global volatility.（隨著投資人在全球日益劇烈的波動中尋求避風港，黃金重新走紅。）

相較於標榜高價精品路線的Lanvin（浪凡）或Chanel（香奈兒）還是Christian Dior（迪奧）等luxury fashion brand/house，近年來大家所耳熟能詳的「平價時尚」英文則是fast fashion，指一般消費大眾買得起的（affordable），但又具備一定時尚感的事物，此一名詞廣泛被定義到一些平價服飾品牌上，如：日本的優衣褲（UNIQLO）、西班牙的ZARA以及瑞典的H&M。

Tracking a Parasite That Turns Bees Into Zombies
生蠅附身 蜜蜂變「殭屍 」
By Nicholas St. Fleur

Call it “The Buzzing Dead.” Infestations of what scientists have dubbed “zombie bees” have spread across both the West and East coasts in recent years.
就叫牠是「嗡嗡飛舞的蜂屍。」近年來，科學家稱為「殭屍蜜蜂」的病蟲害已在美國東西兩岸地區蔓延開來。

The honeybee hordes, while not actually undead, are the unwilling hosts to a parasite infection that researchers think drives the drones to act erratically, or “zombielike,” in the moments before they die.
這些蜂群的成員雖不是真正的殭屍，卻很無奈地成了寄生蟲感染病的宿主，而研究人員認為這種疾病會使雄蜂在死前一段時間行為怪異，「有如殭屍」。

To better understand the parasitized swarms, John Hafernik, an entomologist at San Francisco State University has recruited people countrywide to join his hunt.
為了對寄生蟲群體有更多了解，舊金山州立大學昆蟲學家約翰．哈福尼克已廣邀全美各地有志之士加入他的追蹤行動。

“The big question for us was, ‘Is this a San Francisco thing’ Or something that is taking place all over the country that has not been noticed by biologists before,” he said.
他說：「對我們來說，最重要的問題是『這情形僅限於舊金山？』抑或它是正在全國各地發生，卻從未被生物學家注意到的一種情形。」

Hafernik first discovered something eerie was happening to the bees on his campus in 2008 when he stumbled upon several of them staggering in circles along the sidewalk. For weeks he picked a few up and placed them in a glass vial with plans to feed them to his pet praying mantis.
哈福尼克2008年首次發現發生在校園內蜜蜂身上的怪事，當時他偶然發現幾隻蜜蜂沿著人行道上兜圈搖晃亂飛。他連續幾個星期撿起幾隻蜜蜂，並將牠們放入玻璃瓶中，打算用來餵他的寵物螳螂。

One day he came across a vial he had forgotten on his desk for a couple of weeks. The bees inside were dead, but the vial was overwhelmed with small brown fly pupae. He came to the realization that the bees were parasitized.
有一天，他無意中發現他忘在辦公桌上兩三個星期的一個玻璃瓶。瓶裡的蜜蜂都死了，但瓶內卻充滿褐色的小蒼蠅蛹。他意識到這些蜜蜂被寄生了。

After further exploration across San Francisco Bay, he and his colleagues found several bees that were also behaving strangely. They would fly from their hives at night, which was something bees would normally never do, and then circle around a light fixture. After their nocturnal dance the bees would drop to the ground and start walking strangely. They were succumbing to their overlord, larvae of the fly Apocephalus borealis.
在整個舊金山灣區進一探索後，他和同事發現有一些蜜蜂也行為怪異。牠們會在夜晚飛離蜂巢，而這是蜜蜂通常不會做的事情，之後又繞著燈具飛。牠們在夜舞結束後，會掉到地上，並開始奇怪地行走。牠們正受制於牠們的領主－蚤蠅的幼蟲。

The life cycle of the parasitic fly is straight from a horror story. The female fly uses something called an ovipositor, which is like a hypodermic needle, to inject her eggs into the abdomen of the honeybee.
寄生蠅的生命周期簡直就是個恐怖故事。雌蠅透過一個有如皮下注射器的所謂產卵器，將卵子注入蜜蜂的腹部。

About a week later the larvae lurking within the abdomen wriggle into the bee’s thorax and start liquefying and devouring its wing muscles. Then, like in the movie “Alien,” they burst through the bee’s body, erupting from the soft space between its head and shoulder area.
大約過了一個星期以後，潛伏在腹部的幼蟲蠕動進入蜜蜂的胸腔，並且開始液化、吞食蜜蜂的翅膀肌肉。然後，就像電影「異形」中的情節一樣，牠們衝破蜜蜂的身體，從蜜蜂頭部與肩部之間的柔軟空間冒出。

原文參照：
http://www.nytimes.com/2016/02/26/science/tracking-a-parasite-that-turns-bees-into-zombies.html

2016-03-20/聯合報/D2版/紐約時報賞析 陳韋廷譯