Dressed for the New Nation of Success
穿出「成功」的概念
By Guy Trebay

The difficult challenge faced by men’s wear designers is how to make an impact within a narrow design compass without resorting to outright gimmickry.
男性服裝設計師面對的艱難挑戰，是如何在狹窄的設計範圍內令人一新耳目，卻沒有刻意耍花招。

That challenge was taken up earlier this month, as the men’s wear shows began, by both the fact of the season (they were showing designs for spring 2015) and the marked shift in habits among a generation of consumers entering the market, one that has a relaxed relationship to the traditional customs of the business place.
隨著男裝秀登場，設計師本月稍早接受了挑戰，這表現在兩方面，本季的實際展出（他們展出2015年的春裝設計），以及正進入市場的消費者世代習慣上的顯著改變，這個世代對職場的傳統習俗輕鬆以對。

This is another way of suggesting that the office uniform of the future will likely involve a sweatshirt.
這是以另一種方式暗示，未來的辦公室制服很可能會是一件運動衫。

That to some extent this is already the case is obvious even at this newspaper, which, when this reviewer arrived in 2000, was largely staffed by middle-age men in white shirts and neckties and is now populated by a younger and more diverse group of journalists, most of whom are about as likely to come to the office in a suit and tie as in spelunking gear.
或多或少，現在很顯然已經是這樣了，即便在本報社，當本評論作者2000年進入報社時，同仁大多是穿白襯衫、打領帶的中年男人，現在則是更年輕、更多樣化的一群新聞工作者，大部分人穿西裝打領帶來上班，就和穿洞穴探險裝一樣難得。

Designers have taken note. At showings by 10 independent designers, there were surely some structured clothes and a few halfhearted attempts by people like Jessy Heuvelink, designer for the Swedish label J. Lindeberg, to enliven a thematic – that old reliable, “rockers,” in Mr. Heuvelink’s case.
設計師注意到了。在十位獨立設計師的服裝秀上，當然有一些中規中矩的衣服，以及瑞典品牌J. Lindeberg的設計師傑西．修維林克等人一些不太熱中的嘗試，去活化一個可靠的老主題，以修維林克為例，就是「搖滾者」。

More promising, though, were efforts by designers like the talented Honduras-born Carlos Campos to locate a middle ground between traditional tailoring techniques and a naturally evolving style idiom formed from elements of both sportswear and the street. Graphically arresting, its patterns drawing inspiration from street drawings by the Spanish post-graffiti artist Eltono, Mr. Campos’s collection of neoprene bombers and short-pants suits was reminiscent of recent efforts by the Milan-based designer Neil Barrett – but with more humor.
不過，更被看好的，卻是像才華洋溢、出生在宏都拉斯的卡洛斯．坎波斯這樣的設計師，定位在介於傳統剪裁手藝，以及結合運動衫與街頭風元素的自然演進風格語言之間的中間地帶。圖像醒目，靈感來自西班牙後塗鴨藝術家艾爾托諾的街頭風畫作。坎波斯的潛水布飛行員夾克和短褲套裝，令人想起米蘭設計師尼爾．巴瑞特最近的作品，不過更幽默。

Yet it was the sweatshirts that will be with us for some time. Fat striped slabs like road-striping were collaged onto sweatshirts in a way that made them seem not only plausible but logical to wear for either work or play. There was also something sly in the way Mr. Campos used sweatpant cuffs even on trousers, including suits.
然而，會跟著我們一段時間的是運動衫。像馬路標線的寬條紋平板拼貼到運動衫上，表現的方式讓這些運動衫不僅適合穿去工作或玩耍，也理所當然。坎波斯甚至把運動褲的縮褲腳用在較正式長褲上，包括套裝，有點俏皮。

Equally droll were a natty collection by David Hart inspired by the Palm Springs Modernists and colored in desert pastels; and another by the Argentine designer Lucio Castro, whose theme was a Soviet Summer, his play on the duality of sensual seaside pleasures sought amid the paranoid austerities of the Iron Curtain.
同樣逗趣的是大衛．哈特的帥氣服裝，靈感來自棕櫚泉現代主義者，顏色是球蟒色；另外是阿根廷設計師路西歐．卡斯楚，他的主題是蘇聯的夏天，大玩在鐵幕的偏執拘緊中追求感官的海邊享樂的雙重性。

“Steve Jobs changed the idea of work and what ‘successful’ clothes are,” said Mr. Castro, whose models appeared before a scrim on which seaside scenes were projected. There was one suit. More interesting were quilted sweatpants and sweatshirts made from vintage beach towels with logos that read “Croatia,” “Latvia” and “Belarus.”
卡斯楚說：「史蒂夫．賈伯斯改變了『工作』和什麼是『成功』服裝的概念。」他的模特兒們出現在投射海邊景色的布幕前。有一套西裝。更有趣的是用舊海灘浴巾做成的鋪棉運動衫和運動褲，商標文字是「克羅埃西亞」、「拉脫維亞」和「白俄羅斯」。

“For us and our friends, we know we’re not going to a suit job,” said Timo Weiland, whose namesake label (designed with Alan Eckstein and Donna Kang) presented a collection of shorts suits, flowing trousers and mackintoshes that seemed well judged for outfitting a generation of guys as comfortable doing business at the beach or a Starbucks as in a corporate conference room.
提莫．韋蘭德說：「對我們和我們的朋友來說，我們知道我們不會去做需要穿西裝的工作。」他的同名品牌（與艾倫．艾克斯坦和唐娜．康一起設計），展出一系列的短褲套裝、寬管長褲和防水布鞋，似乎很適合新的世代，這個世代無論在海灘，在星巴克咖啡店，或是在會議室裡工作，都一樣自在。

原文參照：
http://www.nytimes.com/2014/09/06/fashion/carlos-campos-david-hart-lucio-castro-and-more-showed-at-fashion-week.html

2014-09-23聯合報/G9版/UNITEDDAILYNEWS 田思怡譯 原文參見紐時週報十一版下