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瑞士最頂級的美食首府-Philippe Rochat的Hotel de Ville
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2003/10/16 03:56 瀏覽4,537 ｜回應4｜推薦4 |
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瑞士最頂級的美食首府 Philippe Rochat's Hotel de Ville
Restaurant de l'Hotel de Ville, Crissier, Lausanne
 
 
位於Crissier(Lausanne近郊)的Hotel de Ville是全瑞士最好的餐廳.它在原主廚兼店主Frédy Girardet的創建與經營之下,早己享有30多年世界性的法式Haute Cuisine名聲(穫有Michelin三星的最高評價),現在Philippe Rochat的承傳之下,不僅保有舊日的繁華更擁有一番新風貌.
Bruhlmeier因緣際會,曾五次為座上賓.多年來 Hotel de Ville 一直是我的最愛.雖然偭格不低,也只有為特別的日子,才會捨得自己掏腰包去品嚐這頂級餐廳,但依個人對美食的經驗:菜色精緻並具創意,服務上乘,偭與質相當,絕對值得！
下列為Hotel de Ville英文簡介:
Philippe Rochat has 44 staffs on stiff Swiss salaries –, including 15 cooks, 5 pastry chefs, 14 dining room staff, plus their own laundry and bakery .
The day starts at about 9 a.m. when racks of Sisteron lamb are trimmed, pigeons deftly boned and black-legged Bresse chickens dressed. Stocks bubble gently and fragrantly on the hob, vegetables are painstakingly turned and blanched. In the cool of the pastry kitchen the five chefs-pâtissiers bend low over their creations. Across in the sweaty boulangerie two floury bakers are hard at work shaping and knotting the house breads (white, brown, rye, with walnuts, with olives, or speckled with poppy seeds) which are baked twice daily, fresh for each meal.
The fish arrives at the kitchen door by overnight lorry from Brittany some time between 10.30 and 11 – ‘sometimes it gets held up at the customs’, explains head chef Benoit with a rueful smile. It’s nail-biting stuff, and it’s a race against the clock from now on. The crates are distributed amongst the kitchen staff, the knives are out and everyone gets busy filleting spanking fresh wild salmon, turbot weighing in at an impressive three kilos, brill at half the size and portion-sized red mullet. There are mini-scallops, sleek clams, razor-sharp cuttlefish and rugged oysters to be shucked and shelled, spiky sea urchins to be sliced open and scooped out, live crabs and lobsters to be dealt with. By midday, toques are adjusted in the kitchen, ties are straightened in the dining room, the doors are opened and the curtain goes up.
High spots at a recent meal included a dish of those little red mullet, lightly crusted on top, moist underneath, arranged in tongues around the plate. In the centre was a lone plum tomato which positively exploded with flavour, topped with a fragile, flash-fried leaf of basil. The live crabs and lobsters, last seen clattering about the kitchen counters, had been reincarnated as a bed of sweetly dressed crabmeat over which lapped slices of steamed lobster and a garnish of tiny shafts of wild asparagus. Little vongole (cockles) barely bigger than thumbnails were arranged (probably with tweezers) like the petals of a flower on top of an artichoke heart. A discreetly Maghrébien sliver of steamed pigeon breast came clad in a criss-cross courgette coat with an aubergine bstilla on the side. The pastry chefs came up trumps with an early summer combination of fragrant Gariguette strawberries and rhubarb, encased in meringue with fraises des bois and a silken oval of ice cream à l’italienne. The only combination that left me cold was a lukewarm cauliflower soup floating over a foie gras-flavoured custard.
The two prix-fixe menus (SFr 240 and SFr 260) change four times a year. The wine list runs the whole gamut from a local La Côte at SFr45 to a Romanée Conti at SFr1100 and a Pétrus (1990) at SFr5200. In between there’s some great stuff from the nearby vineyards, not the ubiquitous Chasselas but Sauvignons, Chardonnays and interesting blends of the two cabernets plus Gamaret.
Lunch brings out lots of sleek bankers in black socks, people from the wine trade, a sprinkling of Japanese businessmen, a few retired couples evidently observing the maxim ‘thrifty till fifty, spend till the end’ - even the occasional, lone food writer. Dinner is more for family and friends.
After observing the operation at close quarters, it’s not hard to see why Rochat and his team are at the peak of their profession. All the raw materials are of the finest, prepared from scratch, cooked and served with consummate skill. It’s the sort of place where the dining staff still perform public dissections on the poulet de Bresse and where there’s still a proper pudding trolley. It’s a class act, real food, real cooking, real service. That’s what you come for; that’s what you pay for.
Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville,
1023 Crissier,
Switzerland
Tel +41 21 634 05 05
Fax +41 21 634 2464
e-mail: hoteldeville@relaischateaux.com
closed: Sunday and Monday, July 27 - August 20 and 2 weeks
in X'mas.
***
Philippe Rochat and his mentor Fredy Girardet
In this temple of gastronomy on the outskirts of Lausanne, Philippe Rochat presents the great dishes of his mentor Girardet, for whom he was student, right arm and alter ego until venturing out on his own four years ago. His creations reflect the perfection, balance and attention to detail that are the marks of a great chef.
Philippe Rochat was born November 23, 1953 at Le Sentier, Switzerland, son of an Italian mother and a father from the Combier region.
La grande aventure
Fredy Girardet was looking for a cook. Without a moment's hesitation, Philippe Rochat applied. His first day in the kitchens of the Restaurant Girardet - July 1, 1980 - marked the beginning of a sixteen-year adventure, an apprenticeship that would find him appointed in turn to the pastry, meat and vegetable stations, before being promoted to Chef de cuisine in 1989. He became Girardet's second-in-command, his shadow and double, a model employee whom Girardet described as decent and hardworking and in whom he placed absolute trust. His cooking is unique, says Rochat. If it did not exist, I would be miserable. When his protégé took over the restaurant, Girardet confided, Rochat is the heir to my philosophy. Indeed, under Philippe Rochat's direction, this internationally-renowned establishment was named one of the very best restaurants in the world on December 1, 1996.
When Philippe Rochat is not in the kitchen, he recharges his batteries with some sporting activity, running in the woods or cross-country skiing in the Joux valley, a passion he shares with his wife Franziska, a top athlete who took part in the Atlanta Olympics and the World Athletics Championships in Athens, and who placed first in the 1997 New York marathon. A jurist by training, she assists her husband in running the restaurant and the front of the house. Unforunely she died at a ski accident on March 22, 2002
Philippe Rochat and Franziska
美食網站:
Relais & Châteaux
http://www.theworldwidegourmet.com/relais/aboutus.htm
Les Grandes tables de Suisse
http://www.grandestables.ch
L'École des Chefs
http://saveurs.sympatico.ca/ecolechefs/index-a.htm
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http://album.udn.com/bruhlmeier/photo/2391130?o=new
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到現在還一直回味
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2008/11/02 10:49 推薦2 |
Swiss No. 1 美食首府-Philippe Rochat
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2008/04/29 20:23 推薦2 |
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自從2月中貼了“ 情人節的超級大燈泡？Edgard ” 食記後, 至今2個多月其間去了趟北義的Piedmont和瑞士東邊山區的St Moritz渡滑雪假; 結果因緣際會屈指算算又吃了好幾顆星星的米其林. 但由於換新電腦才開始學中文打字, 像蝸牛爬山般艱難; 即使每次享受美食都有拍照存檔, 卻懶得打字組成篇章. 然而十天前再訪瑞士第一名廚Philippe Rochat的l'Hotel de Ville，想想再不做些食錄好像有點後韻無餘?!
話說20多年前還住美國的時候，伴於商界上早就耳聞日內瓦湖區Lausanne城附近的Crissier小鎮有家World Top 10的餐館叫l'Hotel de Ville（可別把這名字直翻成市政府或城玈館唷？). Fredd Girardet是那時的名廚兼主人, 1997年退休即由他調教16年的Philipp Rochat接替. Girardet早成了20世紀的Gastonomy Legend. Crissier的區政府為了光耀以廚藝盡極一生的Girardet, 甚至把餐館前的公共小廣塲改名為Place Fredy Girardet以做為紀念. 台灣忙教改, 但請問行行出狀元的觀念是否也跟著深根呢？請點看街景影片：http://www.crissier.ch/pages/360/placefg.mov （There are lots of good stories to tell..., but I have a hard time to type so many.... ）Philipp Rochat， L’Hotel de Ville, Crissier http://www.philippe-rochat.ch/f/page/1 Menus Proposition I：點了Puligny Montrachet Pucelles 1996和Chateau Sociando Mallet 1996搭配。Good wine, specially good Bordeaux became very pricy，hardly could afford it. 這是享受頂級美食最難相襯之處！ Home made bread - fresh, crispy and good choice... Avocat Fuerte Tex Mex a l'huile de cactus：擺盤算是驚艷吧？ Cubisme d'araignee de mer de Roscoff：這盤很有創意，味美的魚子醬配脆蔬又加無需動手剝殼的海蟹. B很喜歡！ Pointes d'asperges vertes " fillette " de Pertuis a la coque：青蘆筍燉得的鮮純裡暗藏片脆的蘆筍配黑松露，加上蛋裡的神祕濃汁. 這湯可真成了味覺的驚艷！ Aiguillette de St-Pierre, de la Cote d'Argent grillee, parfumee a la fleur d'hibiscus：這魚雖煎配得還算可口，卻是B感覺整餐較平凡的一道。 Mariniere de homard bleu de l'ile de Sky, aux petits pois nouveaux：輕醃Bretagne的藍龍蝦，濃鮮味滋的讚！ Cabri du bocage poitevin, aux deux apprets, l'un confit et l'autre roti, reduction de morilles du Massif Central：這道羔羊主菜的配料看來挺吸引人的. Teppaniaki de bœuf Wagu, aux sesame noir et pousses printanieres：B要主菜換成這道棒極了的Wagu beef＝澳洲養的仿神戶牛肉。日式鐵板燒的柔潤滋味配那濃蜜可口的馬鈴薯黑松露泥. 哇...再來一盤B會更開懷！ Fromages frais et affines：乳酪乳酪選擇多多...3星才易見有這種排塲喔！ 專配乳酪的麵包：B最愛加了堅果及fig的鮮脆麵包了, 再飽也要吃它一口。A French saying：Ｕn pain qui sait chanter，c'est le meilleur. 會唱歌的麵包最可口＝咬下去會劈劈啪啪出聲的... 友人點的Fromages frais：純淡鮮乳酪加特級冷壓橄欖油及香料. 法式吃法啦！ B請侍者建選不臭mild的乳酪，結果有誤差... 除了那兩款會“跑”的, 其他的都平淡無奇 Milk Shake de fruits rouges：很清淡上口的紅果乳冰？ Banane des Canaries caramelisee：香蕉製的“舔”點... Home made Sobert：這款是B選的芒果加百香果口味，只想嚐一口卻來了3坨？ 哦？ 還每人來一盤迷你盡致的甜點... 看都舒服？ pates de fruits et chocolats pures origines：實在恨胃不夠大啦！ 看看就好！
Girardet有句名言：美食最重要的就是食器上呈現的色香味, Rochat依然秉持它的宗旨. 所以哪天想來l'Hotel de Ville親嚐頂級美食, 創意的菜色，精緻的食器，特佳的服務。。。以外, 可別以為會進入一家富麗堂皇的食府。
Michelin 3 Star Restaurants around the world：http://www.3starrestaurants.com/michelin-restaurants-star-guide.asp & http://www.andyhayler.com/show_restaurant.asp?id=96
旅人世界 & B's 心眼 -
遊賞世間美的人、事、物...究境一探,是否真的"物以類聚"？
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Lausanne洛桑
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2007/07/03 15:01 推薦0 |
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