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瑞士最頂級的美食首府-Philippe Rochat的Hotel de Ville
2003/10/16 03:56 瀏覽4,538|回應4推薦4

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瑞士最頂級的美食首府 Philippe Rochat's Hotel de Ville

Restaurant de l'Hotel de Ville, Crissier, Lausanne



位於Crissier(Lausanne近郊)的Hotel de Ville是全瑞士最好的餐廳.它在原主廚兼店主Frédy Girardet的創建與經營之下,早己享有30多年世界性的法式Haute Cuisine名聲(穫有Michelin三星的最高評價),現在Philippe Rochat的承傳之下,不僅保有舊日的繁華更擁有一番新風貌.

Bruhlmeier因緣際會,曾五次為座上賓.多年來 Hotel de Ville 一直是我的最愛.雖然偭格不低,也只有為特別的日子,才會捨得自己掏腰包去品嚐這頂級餐廳,但依個人對美食的經驗:菜色精緻並具創意,服務上乘,偭與質相當,絕對值得!

下列為Hotel de Ville英文簡介:
Philippe Rochat has 44 staffs on stiff Swiss salaries –, including 15 cooks, 5 pastry chefs, 14 dining room staff, plus their own laundry and bakery .

The day starts at about 9 a.m. when racks of Sisteron lamb are trimmed, pigeons deftly boned and black-legged Bresse chickens dressed. Stocks bubble gently and fragrantly on the hob, vegetables are painstakingly turned and blanched. In the cool of the pastry kitchen the five chefs-pâtissiers bend low over their creations. Across in the sweaty boulangerie two floury bakers are hard at work shaping and knotting the house breads (white, brown, rye, with walnuts, with olives, or speckled with poppy seeds) which are baked twice daily, fresh for each meal.

The fish arrives at the kitchen door by overnight lorry from Brittany some time between 10.30 and 11 – ‘sometimes it gets held up at the customs’, explains head chef Benoit with a rueful smile. It’s nail-biting stuff, and it’s a race against the clock from now on. The crates are distributed amongst the kitchen staff, the knives are out and everyone gets busy filleting spanking fresh wild salmon, turbot weighing in at an impressive three kilos, brill at half the size and portion-sized red mullet. There are mini-scallops, sleek clams, razor-sharp cuttlefish and rugged oysters to be shucked and shelled, spiky sea urchins to be sliced open and scooped out, live crabs and lobsters to be dealt with. By midday, toques are adjusted in the kitchen, ties are straightened in the dining room, the doors are opened and the curtain goes up.

High spots at a recent meal included a dish of those little red mullet, lightly crusted on top, moist underneath, arranged in tongues around the plate. In the centre was a lone plum tomato which positively exploded with flavour, topped with a fragile, flash-fried leaf of basil. The live crabs and lobsters, last seen clattering about the kitchen counters, had been reincarnated as a bed of sweetly dressed crabmeat over which lapped slices of steamed lobster and a garnish of tiny shafts of wild asparagus. Little vongole (cockles) barely bigger than thumbnails were arranged (probably with tweezers) like the petals of a flower on top of an artichoke heart. A discreetly Maghrébien sliver of steamed pigeon breast came clad in a criss-cross courgette coat with an aubergine bstilla on the side. The pastry chefs came up trumps with an early summer combination of fragrant Gariguette strawberries and rhubarb, encased in meringue with fraises des bois and a silken oval of ice cream à l’italienne. The only combination that left me cold was a lukewarm cauliflower soup floating over a foie gras-flavoured custard.

The two prix-fixe menus (SFr 240 and SFr 260) change four times a year. The wine list runs the whole gamut from a local La Côte at SFr45 to a Romanée Conti at SFr1100 and a Pétrus (1990) at SFr5200. In between there’s some great stuff from the nearby vineyards, not the ubiquitous Chasselas but Sauvignons, Chardonnays and interesting blends of the two cabernets plus Gamaret.

Lunch brings out lots of sleek bankers in black socks, people from the wine trade, a sprinkling of Japanese businessmen, a few retired couples evidently observing the maxim ‘thrifty till fifty, spend till the end’ - even the occasional, lone food writer. Dinner is more for family and friends.

After observing the operation at close quarters, it’s not hard to see why Rochat and his team are at the peak of their profession. All the raw materials are of the finest, prepared from scratch, cooked and served with consummate skill. It’s the sort of place where the dining staff still perform public dissections on the poulet de Bresse and where there’s still a proper pudding trolley. It’s a class act, real food, real cooking, real service. That’s what you come for; that’s what you pay for.


Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville,
1023 Crissier,
Switzerland
Tel +41 21 634 05 05
Fax +41 21 634 2464
e-mail: hoteldeville@relaischateaux.com
closed: Sunday and Monday, July 27 - August 20 and 2 weeks
in X'mas.

***

Philippe Rochat and his mentor Fredy Girardet

In this temple of gastronomy on the outskirts of Lausanne, Philippe Rochat presents the great dishes of his mentor Girardet, for whom he was student, right arm and alter ego until venturing out on his own four years ago. His creations reflect the perfection, balance and attention to detail that are the marks of a great chef.
Philippe Rochat was born November 23, 1953 at Le Sentier, Switzerland, son of an Italian mother and a father from the Combier region.

La grande aventure

Fredy Girardet was looking for a cook. Without a moment's hesitation, Philippe Rochat applied. His first day in the kitchens of the Restaurant Girardet - July 1, 1980 - marked the beginning of a sixteen-year adventure, an apprenticeship that would find him appointed in turn to the pastry, meat and vegetable stations, before being promoted to Chef de cuisine in 1989. He became Girardet's second-in-command, his shadow and double, a model employee whom Girardet described as decent and hardworking and in whom he placed absolute trust. His cooking is unique, says Rochat. If it did not exist, I would be miserable. When his protégé took over the restaurant, Girardet confided, Rochat is the heir to my philosophy. Indeed, under Philippe Rochat's direction, this internationally-renowned establishment was named one of the very best restaurants in the world on December 1, 1996.

When Philippe Rochat is not in the kitchen, he recharges his batteries with some sporting activity, running in the woods or cross-country skiing in the Joux valley, a passion he shares with his wife Franziska, a top athlete who took part in the Atlanta Olympics and the World Athletics Championships in Athens, and who placed first in the 1997 New York marathon. A jurist by training, she assists her husband in running the restaurant and the front of the house. Unforunely she died at a ski accident on March 22, 2002

Philippe Rochat and Franziska

美食網站:
Relais & Châteaux
http://www.theworldwidegourmet.com/relais/aboutus.htm

Les Grandes tables de Suisse
http://www.grandestables.ch

L'École des Chefs
http://saveurs.sympatico.ca/ecolechefs/index-a.htm
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看圖再回味一次吧?
    回應給: Peech(peecho) 2008/11/11 16:38 推薦0


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http://album.udn.com/bruhlmeier/photo/2391130?o=new
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到現在還一直回味
2008/11/02 10:49 推薦2


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托B姐的福,我才有機會嘗到Philippe Rochat的手藝,實在是太開心了!

我那關於吃喝玩樂的部落格是用英文寫的,但如果大家有興趣可以看看那天的經驗。

http://chi-he-wan-le.blogspot.com/2008/10/mastery-of-philippe-rochat.html

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Swiss No. 1 美食首府-Philippe Rochat
2008/04/29 20:23 推薦2


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涼涼

自從2月中貼了“ 情人節的超級大燈泡?Edgard ” 食記後, 至今2個多月其間去了趟北義的Piedmont和瑞士東邊山區的St Moritz渡滑雪假; 結果因緣際會屈指算算又吃了好幾顆星星的米其林.  但由於換新電腦才開始學中文打字, 像蝸牛爬山般艱難; 即使每次享受美食都有拍照存檔, 卻懶得打字組成篇章. 然而十天前再訪瑞士第一名廚Philippe Rochat的l'Hotel de Ville,想想再不做些食錄好像有點後韻無餘?! 

話說20多年前還住美國的時候,伴於商界上早就耳聞日內瓦湖區Lausanne城附近的Crissier小鎮有家World Top 10的餐館叫l'Hotel de Ville(可別把這名字直翻成市政府或城玈館唷?). Fredd Girardet是那時的名廚兼主人, 1997年退休即由他調教16年的Philipp Rochat接替. Girardet早成了20世紀的Gastonomy Legend. Crissier的區政府為了光耀以廚藝盡極一生的Girardet, 甚至把餐館前的公共小廣塲改名為Place Fredy Girardet以做為紀念. 台灣忙教改, 但請問行行出狀元的觀念是否也跟著深根呢?請點看街景影片:http://www.crissier.ch/pages/360/placefg.mov (There are lots of good stories to tell..., but I have a hard time to type so many....
 
Philipp Rochat, L’Hotel de Ville, Crissier  http://www.philippe-rochat.ch/f/page/1
 
Menus Proposition I:點了Puligny Montrachet Pucelles 1996和Chateau Sociando Mallet 1996搭配。Good wine, specially good Bordeaux became very pricy,hardly could afford it. 這是享受頂級美食最難相襯之處!

Home made bread - fresh, crispy and good choice...

Avocat Fuerte Tex Mex a l'huile de cactus:擺盤算是驚艷吧?

Cubisme d'araignee de mer de Roscoff:這盤很有創意,味美的魚子醬配脆蔬又加無需動手剝殼的海蟹.  B很喜歡!

Pointes d'asperges vertes " fillette " de Pertuis a la coque:青蘆筍燉得的鮮純裡暗藏片脆的蘆筍配黑松露,加上蛋裡的神祕濃汁.  這湯可真成了味覺的驚艷! 

Aiguillette de St-Pierre, de la Cote d'Argent grillee, parfumee a la fleur d'hibiscus:這魚雖煎配得還算可口,卻是B感覺整餐較平凡的一道。   


Mariniere de homard bleu de l'ile de Sky, aux petits pois nouveaux:輕醃Bretagne的藍龍蝦,濃鮮味滋的讚! 

Cabri du bocage poitevin, aux deux apprets, l'un confit et l'autre roti, reduction de morilles du Massif Central:這道羔羊主菜的配料看來挺吸引人的.

Teppaniaki de bœuf Wagu, aux sesame noir et pousses printanieres:B要主菜換成這道棒極了的Wagu beef=澳洲養的仿神戶牛肉。日式鐵板燒的柔潤滋味配那濃蜜可口的馬鈴薯黑松露泥.  哇...再來一盤B會更開懷! 

Fromages frais et affines:乳酪乳酪選擇多多...3星才易見有這種排塲喔!

專配乳酪的麵包:B最愛加了堅果及fig的鮮脆麵包了, 再飽也要吃它一口。A French saying:Un pain qui sait chanter,c'est le meilleur. 會唱歌的麵包最可口=咬下去會劈劈啪啪出聲的...

友人點的Fromages frais:純淡鮮乳酪加特級冷壓橄欖油及香料. 法式吃法啦!
B請侍者建選不臭mild的乳酪,結果有誤差... 除了那兩款會“跑”的, 其他的都平淡無奇 

Milk Shake de fruits rouges:很清淡上口的紅果乳冰?  

Banane des Canaries caramelisee:香蕉製的“舔”點...

Home made Sobert:這款是B選的芒果加百香果口味,只想嚐一口卻來了3坨?

哦? 還每人來一盤迷你盡致的甜點... 看都舒服?

pates de fruits et chocolats pures origines:實在恨胃不夠大啦! 看看就好!

Girardet有句名言:美食最重要的就是食器上呈現的色香味, Rochat依然秉持它的宗旨. 所以哪天想來l'Hotel de Ville親嚐頂級美食, 創意的菜色,精緻的食器,特佳的服務。。。以外, 可別以為會進入一家富麗堂皇的食府。 

Michelin 3 Star Restaurants around the  world:http://www.3starrestaurants.com/michelin-restaurants-star-guide.asp & 
http://www.andyhayler.com/show_restaurant.asp?id=96


引用文章: 瓷婚 

旅人世界 & B's 心眼 -
遊賞世間美的人、事、物...究境一探,是否真的"物以類聚"?
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Lausanne洛桑
2007/07/03 15:01 推薦0


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Lausanne,奧林匹克之都
Lake Geneva Region

 Lausanne是一個集各種特性及熱情的大學城,這個具有國際性氣氛的大學城所吸引的對象不只有學生而已,還包括許多國際精英份子;他們嚮往這個城市多樣化的文化生活及從湖到阿爾卑斯山間優美的景色。瑞士境內最大的珍珠貿易公司董事會的總裁Massimo Esposito說,“我之所以會住在這裏,單單只是因為這裏的生活品質好。”

當然這位眼光敏銳的前意大利人也提及到Lausanne這裏的美酒及佳餚,特別是接近鄉村地區的村莊總有一些東西能令人滿足,比如說在當地的餐廳裏您可以喝到特級的白酒。畢竟Lausanne是依偎在Lavaux和La Cote間的這些美麗葡萄園上,而這些葡萄園生產出各式各樣的高級葡萄酒,有些還甚至是瑞士境內最高級的葡萄酒呢!說實在的,Lausanne的精典烹飪使得那些美味愛好者更加的愉悅。除此之外Lausanne的藝術及文化景觀也足以滿足每個人的心靈渴望,聞名於世的奧林匹克博物館,它獨特的設計加上應用藝術(又稱做mu.dac),展現出無比的智慧以及其特有的優雅文化。要如何來讚頌Lausanne之美?答案是:一個富含美食,文化,魅力,多彩多姿的迷人城市。

Your luxury and design experiance

Lausanne/Lake Region

 
Contact:

 吃喝在洛桑

狄.維力.英.克里西爾餐廳旅館(Restaurant Hotel de Ville in Crissier)

菲力普.羅卻特(Philippe Rochat)被所有的美食評論家極力的讚揚,因為他的菜單是料理藝術中的完美展示,得到高特米優19點以及米其林(Michelin)3顆星的優良評等。

Rue d'Yverdon 1,
Lausanne-Crissier
Phone +41 (0)21 634 05 05
洛桑賓館

您會對我們住屋的舒適氣氛及服務品質讚不絕口。


Lausanne GuestHouse and Backpacker
Epinettes 4
CH-1007 Lausanne
Tel. +41 21 601 80 00
Fax. +41 21 601 80 01
http://www.lausanneguesthouse.ch

爪哇另類酒館(Le Jave. The something else bistro)

有著濃濃的懷舊之情,這間餐館沙龍反映出1930及1950年代巴黎人的風光情形,您很容易就會感受到這裏好客的氣氛,午餐時刻及傍晚時分您若是來這單點一道菜,您很快就會發現主廚還是會興致勃勃的做出一道很有特色的佳餚,除了葡萄酒之外,您也可以在這發現來自世界各地的一系列的啤酒品牌。一般來說,營業時間平常是從早上7點至淩晨12點,星期六則是從早上9點至淩晨2點,星期天則是上午11點至淩晨12點。


Rue Marterey 36, Lausanne
Phone +41 (0)21 321 38 37
www.lejava.ch
柯里的歐伯格.杜.拉辛(Auberge du Raisin in Cully)

在這餐廳古老的外觀背後,夾雜著用餐客人滿意的咀嚼聲以及令從阿道夫布拉克勃根(Adolf Blockbergen)前來的客人滿意等待的創新菜色,使得餐廳有著高知名度的聲譽。餐廳裏頭有個非常棒的葡萄酒窖,當您進入這家餐廳時,您會很快就會了解它到底有多好。高特米優評等18點。

Place de l?Hôtel-de-Ville 1, Cully
Phone +41 (0)21 799 21 31
www.relaischateaux.ch/raisin


盧那咖啡館(Café Luna)

追求時尚潮流者,年輕人以及內心非常年輕的人聚會的好場所,星期二至星期四上午11點至淩晨1點,星期五至星期六上午11點至淩晨2點。


Place de l'Europe 7, Lausanne
Phone +41 (0)21 329 08 46
拉.葛瑞潘.朵餐廳(Restaurant La Grappe d’Or).

在舊城鎮這家彼德.貝爾曼(Peter Baermann’s)的餐廳中,歡迎客人來這體會亞洲氣息,甚至連已故的查理.卓別林都知道如何在葛瑞潘.朵餐廳裏找尋快樂。想要在這快樂的用餐,記得最好先預約,免得到時候沒位子而失望。高特米優評等18點。


Cheneau-de-Bourg 3, Lausanne
Phone +41 (0)21 323 07 60
伯納德.拉維特的餐廳-爾密泰姬(Bernard Ravet’s Restaurant L’ermitage)

爾密泰姬以它世界級的料理年復一年的滿足前來用餐的顧客,伯維德.拉維特和他的家族以一系列的葡萄酒,佳餚,和精選雪茄(這也是伯納德自己最滿意的)來滿足每一個客人挑剔的胃口。高特米優評等19點。


Rue du Village 26,
Vufflens-le-Château
Phone +41 (0)21 804 68 68
www.ravet.ch


 
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