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Pirelli’s Reality Check: Portraying Beauty at Any Age
By Ruth La Ferla

Helen Mirren peers imperiously from inside a high collar that lends her an aura of majesty. Nicole Kidman confronts the camera, her features slightly furrowed, her muscular arms hugging the back of a chair. Charlotte Rampling does each of those A-list stars one better, her pale skin and famously hooded eyes devoid of discernible makeup.

Mirren (71), Kidman (49) and Rampling (70) are but three in a red-carpet-worthy lineup showcased in the 2017 Pirelli calendar. Also posing gamely, without apparent artifice, for the German photographer Peter Lindbergh are Kate Winslet, Uma Thurman, Robin Wright and Julianne Moore, among others, each over 40, some much older, and each apparently willing to bare not just parts of her flesh, but shades of her innermost self.

The calendar, a collector’s item that is produced annually and delivered free to a select group of high-powered clients and members of the fashion elite, is the second in the company’s history to subvert its decades-long tradition of displaying scantily clad models in campily suggestive poses.

For 2017, the calendar stepped up the game by concentrating more pointedly on age, and in the process flouting fashion’s last taboo. Evidently the bias against age, long endemic to Hollywood and the fashion runways, no longer applies to style marketing campaigns.

“We see all these people today who all want to be perfect and young,” Lindbergh said in a phone interview from his home in Paris. “My thought was, ‘Why don’t we do a calendar with women ready to go without much makeup, to be as they are?’ For me, beauty is someone who can say yes to herself.”

He warms to his subjects in conversation. “Sexy has nothing to do with skin,” he said, a touch of mischief in his voice. “Nothing is more erotic than talk.”
談話中,林德伯格對他的主題十分健談。 :「性感與肌膚無關。」語氣中透著一絲淘氣。 「沒有東西比談話更色情。」

One may detect a hint of vaulting ambition, not that of Lindbergh’s but of Pirelli’s: an aim to create, if not precisely an art object, at least, a document of its time.

“We are a global company, and we are affected by global trends,” said Marco Tronchetti Provera, the company’s chairman and chief executive.

For sure, the calendar aims to court an older female clientele. Those women may or may not be the ones to reach into their wallets, but they are crucial nonetheless. When it comes to spending, Tronchetti Provera said, “women are the decision makers much more than men.”


2016-12-25.聯合報.D4.紐約時報賞析 王麗娟

文解字看新聞 王麗娟

Pirelli calendar是義大利輪胎品牌倍耐力的年度女性月曆,因高度養眼和令人血脈賁張,是全球知名度極高的月曆,但隨著全球趨勢(global trend)的轉變,今年的倍耐力月曆選擇突顯年齡之美(beauty in age),而且是以大膽方式呈現,無論是模特兒的妝容或衣著都沒有太多人工修飾(artifice)。

操鏡的林德伯格,是位七十二的攝影家,他和其中多位女星模特兒的合作經驗超過30年,彼此存在長期建立的信賴感(long-built trust)。他拍攝期間,從未想到她們的年齡,只想到她們身上某些脆弱(vulnerable)和真實(truthful)兼具的特質。

以大齡女子或老女人為主角,近來成為趨勢,這些女性除了年齡,還代表個人成就。倍耐力公司董事長特隆契提.普洛維拉認為,社會老年化(aging society),是必須面對的現實(reality check),而且必須正面看待。隨著社會越來越老化,使用老臉孔,恐怕還是無可避免(inevitable)的事。

Confronting Surge in Homelessness, New York City Expands Use of Hotels
By William Neuman

Facing a continued surge in the homeless population, New York City officials are aggressively expanding the costly and highly criticized practice of using hotels to plug gaps in the city’s strained shelter system.

The increase has been stark: About 12 percent of the total homeless population is now being housed in hotel rooms, compared with just 4 percent in January.

On Jan. 1, the city was using 508 hotel rooms for homeless families with children, comprising 1,237 people, according to the Department of Homeless Services. On Nov. 30, 2,418 rooms were being rented for families with children, amounting to 5,798 people.

Now, the city plans to expand its hotel portfolio for homeless families by up to 436 rooms, with 225 of them reserved for families without minor children – the first time the city has earmarked hotel rooms for such families, officials said. The city also plans to add 100 or more hotel rooms for homeless individuals.

The expansion comes as the city has struggled to address a record homeless population – an issue that could become an obstacle in Mayor Bill de Blasio’s bid for re-election next year.

“Look, I own it,” de Blasio said Wednesday on WNYC radio, referring to the surge in the homeless population. “We’re arresting that growth and starting to turn it, and I think we’ll be able to show some real progress soon.”

He listed some initiatives begun by his administration, including legal assistance to help renters fight eviction. “We’re going to come up with a much more comprehensive vision on homelessness in the coming months, but I can tell you that a lot of these initiatives are taking hold.”

But the increased reliance on hotels goes against de Blasio’s vow to curtail the practice. In February, a homeless woman and two of her children were fatally stabbed in a Staten Island hotel where the city had placed them because it did not have room in a shelter.

“The goal is to use hotels less and less and eventually stop using hotels altogether,” the mayor said on the day of the killings, acknowledging that there might be times when the city, which is required to provide shelter to the homeless, would have to resort to hotels as a stopgap. “But what I’m saying is the goal in the short term is to reduce the use of hotels intensely.”

Using hotel rooms is far more costly than alternatives, and advocates for the homeless say it poorly serves the needs of families: There are typically no kitchens and little privacy.


2016-12-25.聯合報.D4.紐約時報賞析 陳韋廷

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