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紐約時報賞析:倍耐力月曆認清現實:美麗無年齡
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Pirelli’s Reality Check: Portraying Beauty at Any Age
倍耐力月曆認清現實:美麗無年齡
By Ruth La Ferla

Helen Mirren peers imperiously from inside a high collar that lends her an aura of majesty. Nicole Kidman confronts the camera, her features slightly furrowed, her muscular arms hugging the back of a chair. Charlotte Rampling does each of those A-list stars one better, her pale skin and famously hooded eyes devoid of discernible makeup.
海倫米蘭從一個高聳的領子,傲慢地向外凝視,予人一種威嚴感。妮可基嫚則是面對相機,臉上略有皺紋,看得出肌肉的手臂環抱著椅背。夏綠蒂蘭普琳比這些A咖明星更勝一籌,她蒼白的肌膚和著名的半垂眼睛,分辨不出是否上了妝。

Mirren (71), Kidman (49) and Rampling (70) are but three in a red-carpet-worthy lineup showcased in the 2017 Pirelli calendar. Also posing gamely, without apparent artifice, for the German photographer Peter Lindbergh are Kate Winslet, Uma Thurman, Robin Wright and Julianne Moore, among others, each over 40, some much older, and each apparently willing to bare not just parts of her flesh, but shades of her innermost self.
海倫米蘭71,妮可基嫚49,夏綠蒂蘭普琳70,她們只是2017年倍耐力月曆紅地毯級明星陣容中的三人。勇敢的為德國攝影師彼得.林德伯格擺姿勢,沒有明顯人工妝容的,還有凱特溫斯蕾、烏瑪舒曼、蘿賓萊特和茱莉安摩爾等人,她們個個40以上,有的年齡更遠大於此,但她們每個人顯然不僅願意裸露部分肉體,而且願意將藏於心最深處的陰影也表露於外

The calendar, a collector’s item that is produced annually and delivered free to a select group of high-powered clients and members of the fashion elite, is the second in the company’s history to subvert its decades-long tradition of displaying scantily clad models in campily suggestive poses.
傳統上,這份月曆是由穿著清涼的模特兒擺出一些可笑的暗示性姿勢,明年的月曆是公司歷來第二次顛覆這項數十年的傳統。這份月曆屬收藏品級,每年發行,免費贈送給選定的一群位高權重客和時尚精英。

For 2017, the calendar stepped up the game by concentrating more pointedly on age, and in the process flouting fashion’s last taboo. Evidently the bias against age, long endemic to Hollywood and the fashion runways, no longer applies to style marketing campaigns.
2017
年的月曆特別強化的遊戲,是聚焦於更加突顯年齡,並在過程中嘲笑時尚的最後禁忌。對年齡的偏見一向是好萊塢和時尚伸展台特有的毛病,但顯然已不再適用於風格行銷的活動。

“We see all these people today who all want to be perfect and young,” Lindbergh said in a phone interview from his home in Paris. “My thought was, ‘Why don’t we do a calendar with women ready to go without much makeup, to be as they are?’ For me, beauty is someone who can say yes to herself.”
林德伯格在巴黎住家接受電訪時:「今天我們看見所有的人都只想要完美和年輕,我的想法是,『為什麼我們不做一本月曆,裡面是沒有化太多妝也願意入鏡,展現真實自我的女性?』對我來,美女是能自我肯定的女性。」

He warms to his subjects in conversation. “Sexy has nothing to do with skin,” he said, a touch of mischief in his voice. “Nothing is more erotic than talk.”
談話中,林德伯格對他的主題十分健談。 :「性感與肌膚無關。」語氣中透著一絲淘氣。 「沒有東西比談話更色情。」

One may detect a hint of vaulting ambition, not that of Lindbergh’s but of Pirelli’s: an aim to create, if not precisely an art object, at least, a document of its time.
我們或可察覺到其中隱含著極大的雄心,不是林德伯格的,而是倍耐力的雄心:公司的目的是創造一件作品,即使不全然是件藝術品,至少,是一本年代的紀實。

“We are a global company, and we are affected by global trends,” said Marco Tronchetti Provera, the company’s chairman and chief executive.
倍耐力公司的董事長兼執行長馬可.特隆契提.普洛維拉:「我們是一家全球性公司,我們受到全球趨勢的影響。」

For sure, the calendar aims to court an older female clientele. Those women may or may not be the ones to reach into their wallets, but they are crucial nonetheless. When it comes to spending, Tronchetti Provera said, “women are the decision makers much more than men.”
可確定的是,月曆旨在討好年紀較長的女客。這些婦女未必是從錢包掏出錢的人,但她們至關重要。跟花錢有關的事,特隆契提.普若維拉:「女性遠比男性更有決定權。」

原文參照:
http://www.nytimes.com/2016/11/30/fashion/pirelli-calendar-beauty-at-any-age.html

2016-12-25.聯合報.D4.紐約時報賞析 王麗娟

文解字看新聞 王麗娟

Pirelli calendar是義大利輪胎品牌倍耐力的年度女性月曆,因高度養眼和令人血脈賁張,是全球知名度極高的月曆,但隨著全球趨勢(global trend)的轉變,今年的倍耐力月曆選擇突顯年齡之美(beauty in age),而且是以大膽方式呈現,無論是模特兒的妝容或衣著都沒有太多人工修飾(artifice)。

操鏡的林德伯格,是位七十二的攝影家,他和其中多位女星模特兒的合作經驗超過30年,彼此存在長期建立的信賴感(long-built trust)。他拍攝期間,從未想到她們的年齡,只想到她們身上某些脆弱(vulnerable)和真實(truthful)兼具的特質。

以大齡女子或老女人為主角,近來成為趨勢,這些女性除了年齡,還代表個人成就。倍耐力公司董事長特隆契提.普洛維拉認為,社會老年化(aging society),是必須面對的現實(reality check),而且必須正面看待。隨著社會越來越老化,使用老臉孔,恐怕還是無可避免(inevitable)的事。

Confronting Surge in Homelessness, New York City Expands Use of Hotels
紐約用飯店收容更多遊民
By William Neuman

Facing a continued surge in the homeless population, New York City officials are aggressively expanding the costly and highly criticized practice of using hotels to plug gaps in the city’s strained shelter system.
對遊民人數持續激增,紐約市官員正積極擴大一種昂貴且備受度批評的作法,也就是用飯店來填補該市緊繃的收容體系的缺口。

The increase has been stark: About 12 percent of the total homeless population is now being housed in hotel rooms, compared with just 4 percent in January.
擴大使用飯店的增幅極大:現在安置在飯店房間的遊民約占12%,而元月時還只有4%

On Jan. 1, the city was using 508 hotel rooms for homeless families with children, comprising 1,237 people, according to the Department of Homeless Services. On Nov. 30, 2,418 rooms were being rented for families with children, amounting to 5,798 people.
紐約市遊民服務局指出,該市為有孩童的遊民家庭提供的飯店房間,在元月一日時,計有508個,共收容1237人,而在1130日時,租用的飯店房間已增至2418個,共收容5798人。

Now, the city plans to expand its hotel portfolio for homeless families by up to 436 rooms, with 225 of them reserved for families without minor children – the first time the city has earmarked hotel rooms for such families, officials said. The city also plans to add 100 or more hotel rooms for homeless individuals.
現在,該市打算將遊民家庭的飯店房間數量最多擴增436間,其中225間預留給沒有未成年子女的家庭。官員表示,這是該市首次為這種家庭預留飯店房間。該市還計畫為個體遊民增加100個或是更多的飯店房間。

The expansion comes as the city has struggled to address a record homeless population – an issue that could become an obstacle in Mayor Bill de Blasio’s bid for re-election next year.
這項擴大行動採行之際,該市正努力解決數量空前的遊民帶來的問題,而這個問題可能成為市長白思豪明年尋求連任的障礙。

“Look, I own it,” de Blasio said Wednesday on WNYC radio, referring to the surge in the homeless population. “We’re arresting that growth and starting to turn it, and I think we’ll be able to show some real progress soon.”
白思豪周三在WNYC公共電台上提到遊民激增時:「聽好,我承認這事。我們正在阻止這個成長態勢,並開始把它扭轉,我想我們很快地就能展現一些實質的進展。」

He listed some initiatives begun by his administration, including legal assistance to help renters fight eviction. “We’re going to come up with a much more comprehensive vision on homelessness in the coming months, but I can tell you that a lot of these initiatives are taking hold.”
他列舉市政府已開始執行的一些方案,包括提供租房者對抗驅逐的法律協助。「我們將在未來幾個月對遊民問題提出全面許多的願景,但我可以告訴你,這些措施有很多都正在進行。」

But the increased reliance on hotels goes against de Blasio’s vow to curtail the practice. In February, a homeless woman and two of her children were fatally stabbed in a Staten Island hotel where the city had placed them because it did not have room in a shelter.
但更加依賴飯店卻跟白思豪縮減該措施的承諾牴觸。二月時,一名女遊民跟她兩個孩子在史坦登島一家飯店被刺死,而他們正是因為紐約市沒有收容空間才被安置在此處。

“The goal is to use hotels less and less and eventually stop using hotels altogether,” the mayor said on the day of the killings, acknowledging that there might be times when the city, which is required to provide shelter to the homeless, would have to resort to hotels as a stopgap. “But what I’m saying is the goal in the short term is to reduce the use of hotels intensely.”
白思豪在命案發生當天,「我們的目標是不斷減少飯店的使用,最後完全停止」,並承認必須為遊民提供住所的紐約市府有時可能不得不使用飯店應急。「但我所的是,短期目標是積極減少飯店的使用。」

Using hotel rooms is far more costly than alternatives, and advocates for the homeless say it poorly serves the needs of families: There are typically no kitchens and little privacy.
使用飯店遠比其他替代方案花錢,而衛護遊民權益的人士表示,這種作法也不符家庭的需求:通常沒有廚房且沒什麼隱私。

原文參照:
http://www.nytimes.com/2016/12/07/nyregion/homelessness-new-york-city-hotels.html

2016-12-25.聯合報.D4.紐約時報賞析 陳韋廷


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